風車を見ながら 3/4波乗り日記！

昨日は大クローズだったので、明日は期待できるんじゃないっと

テンション

仕事明けの休みなので、朝一は行けないので、

サーフ仲間に波情報をお願いしてたんだ

仕事帰りに　朝一の波情報！メールが来たねぇ～

一言

「ローカルプロがリーフに来てますよ」

これだけで十分通じる

プロがリーフに来てるっちゅうことは、まだビーチはコンディションまとまってない　ちゅうこと

仕事帰りの海岸線

昨日より角が取れてるもののデカくてハード！

今日も西へ向かう

1つかなり気になることがあって、昨日の天気予報で西風が入ると言ってたんだよな

ポイントまで1時間

風が入ったら即終了になりそうで高速を乗り継ぎながら急いで向かう

国道にある風車が目印

風車の向きで風の方向が分かる

ポイントに近づくにつれオフから西へと方向が変わってゆく

10：30　微風サイドオン　オーバーヘッド　レフトの波　（リーフポイントなので画像なし）

なんとかギリ間に合った　　と思ったが

入水する時には風がびゅーびゅー

ウサギが飛び跳ねるほどコンディションの変化で

1本も乗らずに終了な感じ

なかなか乗れず・・・乗れず・・・・う～ん　乗れんと時間だけが過ぎるので

ミドルへ移動してからのやっとセットが来たー

ぐいっと一気に掘れ上がって持ち上がりーのからテイクオフ

壁にボードをセットしてジェットコースターみたい　落ちてゆく～

こりゃぁ快感！　スリル満点！

この1本でヤル気が出てコンディションは悪いものの楽しく遊べた～

波乗りから帰ってきた時の myビーチ！

サイズは落ちてるけどまだハードでした

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