ジャンクコンディション　3/3　波乗り日記！：my　ビーチ！：SSブログ

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ジャンクコンディション　3/3　波乗り日記！　[波乗り日記] [編集]

強烈な寒気が抜けて、穏やかな朝を迎えた

先週のハードなスケジュールで腰が痛くて動くにも亀になっててゆっくり休んだ昨日

今日はあまり痛くない　けど　無理は禁物

波情報　「ナウファス」　を見ると驚いた～　

Σ(Дﾟ;/)/…ｴｴ!?　　波の高さが4メートル超えてる～～～

ありえん数字だ

こりゃ西のリーフまで行かんと入れんわっと準備してとりあえず行ってみようっと

海岸線に出た瞬間、思わず「デカい」っと叫んでた

いやぁ～　ビックリ　ビックウエーブが沸騰中

こんな波って　そうは出会わないので思わず叫んでしまったわ～

西へ西へ

10：00頃

うねりと波をかわすポイントへ着いたもののあまりの凄さに・・・

なんじゃこりゃ

このポイントでこんなにハードな時って初めて見た

これでも朝一よりはマシになったらしい

真ん中のテトラで波が割れてるもん（初めて割れてるの見た）

堤防横のセットはオーバーヘッド炸裂

真ん中のテトラが超！危険！！

早い時間に入水したサーフ仲間が吸い込まれてボードを折って脱出したそーな

何度見てもありえね～光景

波のサイズはなんとかなりそう

カレントに注意して　果たしてアウトまで出れるのか？

無謀にも？クラシックボードで入水

意外にも旨い具合にセットが入って来なくてええとこまで行ったけど

そっからアウトで3発喰らい～のフラフラしながらもなんとか出れた

波はまぁーデカい　けど　ちょっと　たるめ　独特な波質は変わらず

ワイドなセットは捨てて物足りんようなセット狙い作戦は成功するが

たるいのでターンがひっかかる

サイズの割には物足りん

ちょっと張った波が来たーっと　テイクオフ

今度は波のフェイスが切り立ち始め　クロスステップで

気持ちよ～く

ハングファイブ　ノ～～～～ズ　ライディング

ちょっと粘り過ぎたー　ステップバックで痛恨のコケ

これをやりたかったので　こんな時でもクラシックのボードを選んだ理由

この後は波運を掴み損ねスキルを上げる気持ちを抑えたので（腰痛で無理したくなかった）

まぁ　今日はこんなもんでしょう（ちょっと悔しいけど）

明日はきっとええはずっと期待して終了

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